Mill Outlet Lumber

Posts Tagged siding

Plywood Central

Mill Outlet is the place to find bargains on Shop grade Plywood Siding and sheathing such as CDX plywood. Most of what we carry is Shop grade meaning that it has some defect but is otherwise very usable for many things such as shelving, sheds and outbuildings, containers and even non structural residential uses such as roof re sheathing in the case where you are covering existing structural sheathing.

Shop grade also means that it is less expensive of course. Currently we carry a wide variety of T-1-11 siding in this grade, with and without grooves and in 3/8″, some 1/2″ and lots of 5/8″ thicknesses. T-1-11 is also available in 4×8, 4×9 and 4×10 foot sheets.

If you are in the need for inexpensive, shop grade siding, look no further than Mill Outlet Lumber where you can count on us to always be on the lookout for bargains for you!


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Board and Batten Siding


I probably get 1 call per week from people looking for Board and Batten siding for their barn or shed. They always seem to want wide boards and long boards, but they don’t seem to mind much about the grade. The problem is that wide boards command a premium price because they come from bigger trees which in turn tend to produce more knot free, clear high value wood and the same person who is looking for shed siding or barn siding does not want to spend a lot to get their job done… End result, is thar not many of these phone calls go anywhere.


Last week I was speaking to a customer in the yard and he was really looking for a solution to this dilemma, when I asked him, “do you Really need full length, wide boards?”,His response surprised me, No, he said as we simultaneously said “and you can bevel cut the butt joints to keep most of the rain out. So I am sharing the word. Do you Really need full length wide Barn and Shed Siding? 1×12 Tight Knot cedar with a 1×2 batten will cost in the neighborhood of . Even low grade 1×12, that will probably be split or have missing knots will be e.


If you use our 1×6-8′ #1 fence board as a backing board and our 1×4-8′ #1 as a Batten with 1/2″ overlap, it will cost  by comparison. If you step down and use the same boards in a #3 grade the cost drops to. All of this for a very attractive, no hole, board and batten siding. A further benefit is that these boards are 5/8″ thick so that the total thickness does not become too great and we also carry a wide variety of other sizes and lengths that will work well as trim, corners and to optimize lengths. The good news is that shorter length, fence boards will reduce the cost further. If you are asking yourself if the joints in the boards will be a problem, remember that no matter what siding you use, you should use a moisture barrier such as felt at the very minimum. Also keep in mind that all wood siding has joints that must be handled correctly through clever and sensible installation and application.

So,, by getting a little outside the box we can put siding on those old barns, rustic charm on your home and spruce up backyard sheds, without breaking the bank.


Posted in: Siding

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Decoding Shingles and Shakes

Wood roofing and siding are probably the most confusing things we sell. It is hard to decipher where all the terminology and practical uses have originated exactly, but here is my attempt at explaining what is important.

Wood Shingles, Western Red Cedar, as far as we are concerned, are primarily  used for siding on buildings. When used for roofing it is generally recommended that you never use anything but the highest grade, #1. Shingles are saw cut on both faces and come in bundles that cover 25 square feet at recommended exposure.

Shingle Grades

#1 shingles are 100% edge grain, 100% clear, 100% heartwood, these are cut from the best wood available and anything found not meeting expectations is downgraded before bundling some mills are known to cut second growth #1 which you should be wary of, they will loosely meet the grade but have wide unstable grain pattern.

#2 Shingles are cut from lower grade blocks or accumulated from shingles that that missed #1 grade. #2 grade allows some sapwood and flat grain, but must be a minimum of 10″, 11″ or 16″ clear measured from the butt for 16″, 18″ or 24″ shingles.

#3 grade is what you might expect, cut from even lower quality blocks and the rejects from #1 and #2 grade. 3’s are allowed unlimited sapwood and flatgrain but knots are restricted to above 6″ for 16″ and 18″ and above 10″ for 24″. It really does not make sense to use #3 for roof applications at any time, but for sidewall and interior use when you are looking for a Rustic or shabby chic look they are perfect providing you take into account weather exposure and flashing details.

Another lower grade available for rustic sidewall use is #3&4 undercourse. The intended use for these is to install behind certain “sidewall” shingles that are dry, sanded or textured packaged in boxes that cover either 50 or 100 square feet at 14″ exposure for a 16″ shingle.

In addition to grade, a measure of quality, shingles also come in a selection of sizes.

16″ fivex are 16″ long and 5 butts equal 2″ total thickness

18″ Perfections are 18″ long and 5 butts equal 2 1/4″ total thickness

24″ Royals are 24″ long and 4 butts equal 2″ total thickness

All shingles and shakes for that matter are also available to some degree in a variety of treatment and certifications. Class A, B and C fire ratings and CCA treated against rot and insect damage. There are also a variety of pre or post installation treatments that can be applied to further protect or rejuvenate your roof or siding.

Posted in: Shingles and Shakes

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